Types of Paint Finishes
When you get started in giving your home a fresh new look, you’re going to discover that there are so many different types of paints finishes out there to choose from. And it’s important to select the right type of paint for the job in hand, from emulsion to wood or metal paints, and other more specialist paints. Even when choosing a white emulsion for walls and ceilings, there’s going to be a few options for you to pick from.
There’s the standard emulsion in pure brilliant white or ultra-white, that’s certainly going to brighten up your home. Or if it’s somewhere that needs cleaning more often, like the hallway or a kid’s playroom, then you can still pick a white paint or a light colour, but go for a durable acrylic option, which is going to be easier to maintain. And if you’re sick of painting your white wall and then noticing you’ve missed a spot, then why not try Magic White, because this is a paint that goes on pink and it fades the brilliant white as it dries.
There’s also specialist paint for new plaster that’s going to seal it ready for painting with a top coat or another colour. Or how about base coat which is great if you have an older house with some hairline cracks in the walls that need covering, or if perhaps you’re changing from a strong red colour to a much lighter Magnolia. If you’d like to create an effect, then you can use textured or rippled paint, which is great for ceilings and a standard cold emotion is ideal for low traffic areas like the dining room and there are lots of ready mixed colour options for you to choose from that will help you get that perfect look.
Like the white ranges though these paints can be selected with a matt silk or soft sheen finish. Some areas around the home are likely to show marks from shoe scuffs or school bags like the stairwell or the kids bedrooms, so you need your paint to be super tough. Choose a durable paint with added acrylic for the ultimate in scalability. Kitchen Bathroom paints have been specifically created to withstand the demanding environments of your home. Kitchen paint is going to resist grease and stains and the bathroom paints will resist moisture and steam.
Both of these paints are tough paints and you can wipe them down. It’s a pain when you run out of paint in the middle of decorating. For specialist jobs, you can buy paints like radiator paint, floor paint, and chalky finished furniture paint and they do what it says on the tin. When it comes to doors, door frames and skirting boards, you no longer need the same emulsion paint that you’ve been using on your walls and ceilings. You can choose from a variety of wood and metal paints and these come with different finishes and colours.
When painting wood for the first time, you are going to need to use a primer or undercoat to seal the wood and this will ensure that your top coat has something to bond, and remember to match your undercoat your top coat, so if you’re using a water based top coat, then use a water based undercoat and it’s the same for solvent based paints. If you’re at all unsure, check your tin for advice.
A top tip is to tint your primer with a dash of your top coat to reduce the number of coats that you’ll need overall, and this will help you ensure the best-looking finish. So, do you choose a water or solvent based product? Well water-based products are less likely to yellow over time, they do dry quicker, and you don’t get that strong paint smell all around the home. Plus, they are better for the environment and your brushes and rollers will be easy to clean afterwards.
Don’t write solvent based products off altogether. Because these more traditional paints are preferred by tradesmen and do give a better final finish. You just need to make sure that the room you’re working in is well ventilated by opening the windows and doors and you’re going to need to leave 16 to 24 hours for the coats to dry. Now you can get your brushes clean afterwards with solvent based paints, but it’s going to take more effort, you’re going to need to soak them in white spirit first.
Solvent based paints can sit in a tin for up to 15 years if not opened and kept away from extreme temperature and water based paints could last for up to 10 years. After use, any leftover paint should be closed up tightly stored in a cool dry place and used within two years. When you reopen a paint that’s been sat for some time, it’s normal for it to have separated. If you can stir the solids back smoothly into the liquid, chances are you’re going to be able to use that paint again. Okay, by now you should have a much clearer idea of which type of paint to choose. So thanks for reading this post about how to paint your home. Hopefully you’ve picked up a few tips on the different types of paint finishes and you’re now keen to get started. So best of luck and happy painting.
How to Paint Kitchen Cabinets
Kitchen Cabinets take a lot of abuse and they can be expensive to replace, but no worries. I’m going to tell you how to paint kitchen cabinets and make them look new again with a coat of paint. First, you want to know that everything is structurally sound. If they’re not, don’t bother painting them. If the doors are warped or splitting, you may just be able to replace the doors and then paint everything else to match. It’s important to know what material your cabinets are made of because wood cabinets are easy to paint as long as you scuff up the surface. But there are certain cabinet materials that aren’t as easy to work with. It’s important that you have the right product for the job. Wood, laminate and metal cabinets can usually be repainted pretty easily, plastic laminate cabinets, on the other hand, can be hard to work with and require special paint. Most professional painters are going to use a paint sprayer when they’re working on cabinets. It covers a lot of cabinet in a short amount of time. But these things work best with oil-based enamel paints, and you going to be using a latex based paint. We want to use latex because it’s an easier cleanup and it has a shorter drying time.
So, our best bet for an applicator for the latex is the foam roller. These are great and some little foam brushes are good to use too. The last resort for an applicator is going to be your good old brush. The only problem with the brush is that you’re going to have a lot of brush strokes, it’s hard to get a nice smooth finish. So, you’re going to spend a lot of time in between coats, sanding it down to try and get the look that you want.
Now that you’ve sized up your job and cleaned out your cabinets, it’s time to get started. Start by removing the cabinet poles and then take off the doors and drawers along with the hinges. If you plan to reuse the same hardware, store the pieces in some plastic bags and place them inside the corresponding cabinets where there’ll be easy to locate later. This is where a little attention to detail makes your life a lot easier in the long run. Number each one of the doors and stick a piece of tape with that number on it on the back of the door and then also on the inside of the cabinet. That way you know exactly where everything goes when you’re all done. The next step is probably the most important you’re not going to get a good paint finish on your cabinets unless your cabinets are absolutely clean. In the kitchen these things are covered with grease and probably even some spaghetti sauce, you want to make sure that stuff is all off there. You can use any cleaner that you want. But the most important thing is you don’t want to use a cleaner that leaves any residue on the surface. Now most people are going to use a tsp which is a trisodium phosphate. It comes in a powder form you mix it with water and you put it on the cabinet, it takes off all of that grease. You can use a pre mixed form, it’s actually phosphate free and you are going to spray it on. But keep in mind that any of these things that you’re using can dull the finish on any shiny surface including glass aluminum, so make sure you cover it up and if you get any drips on there that you rinse it off immediately.
Now you’re going to need to have gloves on. Spray the solution over the entire surface of the cabinet doors and drawer fronts. Let it sit for a few minutes. Then wipe it off with a clean towel. There’s a lot of gunk coming off, so you can see how much nicer your cabinets are going to look without that on them. Some cleansers may need to be rinsed off with water but this just requires a good wipe down and be sure to read the packaging of the cleaner you choose. If you have a lot of gunk on your cabinets, you might want to use like a six in one Paint Tool and get in there really gently in the corners and take all that excess out. Cover up countertops, backsplash and appliances with a drop cloth and then hit the cabinet boxes with the same cleanser.
So now that we’ve got these cabinets all cleaned off, we’re ready to start sanding them. And the idea is we just want to scuff the surface so it accepts paint easier. Your also taping off any areas on the interior that you don’t want to paint so we have a nice clean finish. So when it comes to sanding, these tools are going to make easy work for you. Get an orbital sander with a finer grit sandpaper on here 200 to 220. What you are doing is just scuffing the surface you don’t need to take all of the stain off or if you have painted cabinets you don’t need to take all the paint off, you just want to scuff it so that that new paint can adhere to something. We are going to use the sanding sponge or soft sanding block with the same grit 200 to 220 for the edges, any edges that are beveled where you need to get in there and work in the most important thing is you don’t want to change the profile of your cabinet doors and you don’t want to make any gouges.
So, once you get all that sanding done, you got to get rid of the dust before you start any painting. So, get your vacuum to suck get all the dust, and then go over it again with the tack cloth to make sure you have a nice smooth finish. A small handheld vacuum or a wet dry vac works great, especially when it comes to the cabinets themselves. When it comes to the face fronts a pneumatic air compressor works really well, especially if you’re dealing with crevices or molding details.
When you finished prepping the cabinets take one final look if there’s any areas with stubborn stains, you can use denatured alcohol to remove that stain. And also, if you’ve got a material that you can’t stand down like this paper veneer because you’ve ruined the material, you can use the denatured alcohol and a little bit of steel wool to take down that sheen. So, you’ve cleaned your cabinets, you’ve sanded, you are pretty much ready to paint. But what you don’t want to forget to do now is prime, the primer is going to do three things for you. Number one, it’s going to help the paint adhere to the cabinet better. Number two, it’s going to give you a better finish with fewer coats of paint, and it’s going to prevent that woodgrain from showing through. You want your new paint job to last a really long time and that primer is going to help that happen. Using a water-based primer is going to be a perfect base for the semi-gloss water-based paint you are putting on next. People used to say oil-based paints were the only way to go in a kitchen. But today’s water-based finishes are easier to work with and just as durable as their messy and smelly or oil base cousins and they are a lot greener. If you are repainting cabinets that are already painted, you can probably skip the primer unless you’re changing color. If you’re going from red to white, you’ll probably want to prime it or if you’ve sanded it all the way down to bare natural wood, you’ll probably want to prime it as well. If you are painting the cabinets a color, asked to have your primer tinted the same color. And don’t forget to check for the drying time on the can of primer to let you know how long this needs to set up before you start painting. Typically, if it’s very humid or very cold, it will take a little longer to dry.
So, you’ve laid your groundwork, the primer is finally dry and now you’re ready to take it to the finish line. Start by painting the inside edges and openings of the face frames first, then the outer cabinet sides. And finally, the face frame fronts. This allows you to work quickly in the less critical areas and enables you to see and correct any drips or smudges on the most visible areas. Next are painting any of your doors and your drawer fronts and any term that you might have. If these parts have raised or routed features, be sure to flow the paint into crevices and corners but don’t allow it to accumulate in these spots. The color is going to totally brighten up the kitchen and get rid of that old nasty dated oak. A foam brush works well to get into any creases. It’s best to start with the back of the door and once that’s dry, flip the door to paint the front. This way the front of the door will be able to dry face up with no possibility of smudging the finish. You can also use some risers made from finished nails and scrap wood that allows us to flip the doors when they’re still wet or tacky, leaving nearly invisible marks. No matter what applicator you’re using, brush, roller or sprayer. always apply paint and thin light coats but be sure to cover all areas. drying time varies with your first coat but generally it should be drying in about four hours. Once you know it’s completely dry. You want to take a fine grit sandpaper and go over the top now you’re not trying to take off any of your new paint. You just want to make sure you have a great smooth surface for your final coat of paint. So little spots like this are what you’re looking for.
Be sure to wipe away all the dust with a tack cloth. Apply the second coat just like the first In a nice thin layer two coats of paint plaster primer should be enough but if you’re not getting the finish that you’re looking for, don’t hesitate to put on a third coat. Looks pretty nice a total time for this job two days price tag, just $100 and that’s a lot cheaper than new cabinets. That is how to paint kitchen cabinets.